Each represents an evolutionary step for humans farther out into the ocean. In colorfully anecdotal, appealing prose, Greenberg focuses on our pursuit of salmon, sea bass, cod and tuna. Kurlansky is cited as an authority and even appears as a character in Greenberg’s fish story, a pleasing amalgam of memoir, travelogue, history, scientific inquiry, plea for reform and even tasting menu. This readable account of our hunt for wild fish and our attempt to domesticate them for consumption will remind many readers of Mark Kurlansky’s bestseller Cod (1997), and for good reason. Greenberg ( Leaving Katya, 2002) addresses how nations can make smarter choices about managing resources and how the individual seafood-lover can support those choices at the dinner table, but he also examines a series of smaller issues: how farmed salmon-an industry badly in need of reform-has inspired a taste for its wild ancestor, why tilapia has suddenly shown up in the market, how the rage for sushi poses new regulatory challenges, why taming sea bass makes little sense. An award-winning food journalist brilliantly dissects the relationship between humans and the four fish that dominate the seafood market.
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